Paros, Santorini and Naxos Islands

Stunning views ...

From Mykonos John and I enjoyed the 23NM trip (about five hours sailing) in 17-30kts wind to reach Paros Is while Maree and Colin endured the weather conditions again. Several times on this passage we heard the radio call for a ‘Pan-Pan’ emergency for a man lost over board - quite sobering reminder to remain viligent.  On arrival we anchored in a beautiful and expansive (and sheltered) Naousa Bay in the North of the island and enjoyed several days relaxing, hiking out to the lighthouse and swimming. 

The next dinner out?

We ended up completing a circumnavigation of Paros Is spending 16 days on this attractive, laid back island and enjoyed the quiet anchorages, good swimming beaches and lots of bays for walking. Paros is known for the abundance of pure white marble which was used in Napelon’s tomb. The island is well serviced by local ferries the run from the anchorages across the various bays which makes it easy to get off the boat and head into the local towns and between islands. A common sight on the island is octopus drying outside the taverna’s which is popular local dish. 

Piso Livadhi

After several days at Naousa Bay we motored for 2hrs around the top of the island and stopped at Pisa Livadhi town quay for several days and enjoyed another picturesque local scene and sheltered sandy beaches. Unfortunately this time the local’s recommendation for the taverna was disappointing with the octopus meals being returned and substituted for local fish n’chips - eating out is often a lottery as we are finding out.  While at Pisa Livadhi we caught the day ferry to Santorini a pleasant 2.5hrs ride without having to adjust any sails, check a course or complete the hourly log there was nothing to do but sit back and enjoy the ride.  

The entry to Santorini was somewhat foreboding with the sheer lava-layers cliffs dropping into the sea.  Despite the tourism, Santorini is a stunning island with white villages clinging to the imposing volcanic cliffs and dotted with numerous blue domed church’s. Santorini was formed by a massive volcanic eruption that destroyed part of this once-circular island in 1450BC.  The resulting under water crater is associated with the legend of the lost city of Atlantis.  We enjoyed the day meaning along the main town with it’s winding, narrow streets full of shops and restaurants perched on the clifftops.  We saw a novel way of collecting the town rubbish down a steep path using a donkey.

Memorial in private garden

After Piso Lavadhi we headed further around the island and anchored at Aliki which was a large anchorage with most days seeing 20 boats peacefully anchored.  We made the most of the visibly and clear water with John completing two dives to clean the hull while Leanne washed down the bootstrap.  Sabbaticus’s bottom is now smooth again and free of any growth. After beautiful sunsets it was time to haul anchor and sail the 22NM to the main town of Paroikia to secure ourselves before the next forecasted blow came through.  

Just enough room for us

Paroikia is the main ferry hub for Paros and an easy town to walk around with a real ‘working feel’ to it.  We found the best well stocked hardware store since leaving the UK in Paroikia with a few more items now crossed off the boat shopping list.  A trip by bus down the coast to the local dive shop enabled us to fill our dive tanks ready for the next boat dive. At Paroikia we were able to secure a berth in the town quay after the charter boats departed which made it easy for us to walk off the boat at anytime as opposed to a trip (which usually incurred a wet backside) ashore in the RIB.  We all enjoyed a relaxing few days at Paroikia and made the most of the local bakeries complete with an ice cream section, several meals out at a local taverna watch and walks to the different beaches depending on the weather.  

We then moved to Naxos Is which were perfect conditions for Maree and Colin's last sail on Sabbaticus with a light 10-15kt breeze and a short 20NM trip.  Naxos has been another enjoyable island to visit with the Venetian Castle on top of the hill.  We anchored under the major tourist attraction the marble arch which was part of a temple started in 530BC but never completed.  Naxos is our last stop with Maree and Colin who catch a ferry back to Athens to return to NZ. We will then have to adjust the two of us again as we sail further east to the Dodecanese group of islands next.

The next update will be from Maree and Colin to provide a 'first-time sailing' perspective of their holiday on Sabbaticus.  Below are a few more photos.

Kythnos, Siros and Mykonos Islands

After leaving Poros Is we had our longest day of sailing, 46NM / 10hrs, to reach the group of Cyclades Islands. Our first stop was Kolona Bay in Kythnos which was a barren rocky island with sheltered anchorages. Kolona Bay was a beautiful stopover and we enjoyed the walk along the goat tracks to the sand bar that linked to another bay.  We also were able to swim ashore to enjoy the ‘hot springs pool’ which in reality was a puddle with enough room for 2-3 people to sit in. Watching the numerous herds of goats frolicking on the hills and shoreline made a pleasant change from traffic noises.  
 

Row, row, row your boat ..

After a couple of days we then moved around the island to the Loutra Bay.  With limited ‘swinging room’ in the anchorage we took a stern line ashore - another first time experience for us. This required Leanne rowing the dinghy while John holds the stern line and then secures it to the first available rocky ledge or tree onshore. On our second night (with gusty winds predicted) we decided to visit the local town quay and enjoyed the small village, walking the hills and a larger pool of hot springs off the beach which were a popular place to meet people.  

St George's Cathedral

It was then a short sail from Kythnos to Siros Is.  After a couple of nights anchoring at Finikas we sailed around the coast (17NM) to Ermoupoli, the capital and the ferry hub for the Cyclades Islands. This was a very busy port with Sabbaticus moored alongside the town quay and enjoyed the ambience of the town, visiting the numerous church's, wandering around the maze of streets and watching the super yachts, ferries and yachts arriving and departing. Stepping of the boat we were walking straight into the table and chairs of the local bars and tavernas - while we enjoyed the ambience of this scene in the wee hours of the morning it wasn't as appealing with the late night dinner's shooting the breeze. We are working away through the Greek cuisine at the local tavernas and bakeries and enjoying our spanakopita for lunch (spinach & cheese in filo pastry).  While it would have been good to stay another few days the constant ferry wash and gusts created a surge which became uncomfortable so we decided to move on to Mykonos (one of the published 'tourist' highlights).

Mykonos Town Quay

Although Mykonos was only a 21NM trip away the forecasted wind of 25kts quickly built to a 30-35kts on the beam and a maximum of 40kts once we were outside of the harbour. In these conditions Sabbaticus raced away under half a genoa (only) and still kept good speed with the small amount of sail up. This was not a pleasant trip for Maree and Colin who had to endure Force 7 conditions- the only positive note was this passage was a fast 3 hr crossing to the island. Berthing at the town quay in 40kts gusts and squeezing into a tight space is definitely easier with extra hands onboard to assist. The Mykonos town quay was a busy place with the local ferries and a cruise ship on the outer mole and two cruise ships at anchor.

Little Venice

The town of Mykonos is known at the tourist mecca of the Cyclades. From the town quay we caught a local ferry to the town city and  took in the sights and strolled around the maze of streets, walked through Little Venice where the sea laps up to the edge of restaurants / bars and the hilltop row of windmills (none in working condition) our experience was jaded by the three cruise ships in town on the same day.  On a fine day with no wind, fewer tourists the town would be dazzling with the white washed cube shaped houses stacked around the harbour and the many, many blue domed churches dotted around. 

We spent a few days at the town quay and enjoyed meeting other yachties and walking around the local area. Colin and Maree enjoyed a second day in Mykonos which was far more enjoyable than the first with no visiting cruise ships to destroy the ambiance of the village. After three days and the winds finally decreasing we then departed for Paros Is.

Mkyonos Windmills

Mykonos Church 

Sabbaticus dwarfed by Super Yacht in Ermoupoli town quay

Kythnos local 

Kythnos Anchorage