On the Hard in Marmaris, Turkey

Finally hauled out - 6 hours late!

After discussing the options for sometime and receiving numerous quotes we decided to haul Sabbaticus out of the water in Yacht Marina, Marmaris to have the coppercoat re-applied to the hull (her bottom) and complete some other minor maintenance tasks. While we lose cruising time it was more cost effective to complete this job in Turkey as opposed to Sicily where we are booked into a marina for winter. After an early start we were at the marina waiting for the agreed 0900hrs haul out only to wait alongside in the heat until 1500hrs when we were finally lifted. We were not impressed as our contractor, Murad (from Port Yacht Technic) was patiently waiting to commence work with his team and we lost one of our contracted 15 hard standing days.

Support struts positioned

We were a bit apprehensive when we saw the support struts for Sabbaticus, 13 poles and wedges used to keep her secure. We felt a bit unstable on the first night - given this was our first time on dry land for 15 months it felt like Sabbaticus would topple over.  This was not helped by John stating if she goes over make sure you go for the high side and hang on! 

Having now experienced living on the hard we now understand why there is a special summer rate as it is incredibly hot and humid working in Aug. With no air conditioning, fridge or freezer (these only operate when we are in the water) and no toilets or shower facilities onboard (we trudge across the dusty yard to use the marina bathrooms and carry numerous buckets of water up and down the steps each day), it was trying times onboard and difficult to cook and sleep in the heat. Yet another good team building experience!

Yacht Marina

Two different worlds

Despite the heat (most days 35 -38 degs) Yacht Marina was an easy place to stay with a large supermarket, air conditioned library, pool, free ferry to the city centre, hair dresser and fitness centre. The marina has 700 berths and hard standing for 1,000 yachts with a large chandlery and repair workshops on site so very easy to get work on the boat completed.  Due to the high temps we treated ourselves to one night in a hotel in town to enjoy the luxury of an air conditioned room.  Our one night off the boat gave us a glimpse into UK focused holiday resorts (Hi-de-Hi campers!), complete with a mosque visible from the pool. 

Engine trials

GRP spot repairs

After 15 days the maintenance task list was completed and we were back in the water.  Murad and his team did an excellent job of re-applying the copper coat which required careful planning and meticulous attention to detail in application given the extremely hot conditions.  They also did a range of other minor repairs including woodwork, engine maintenance (removal, cleaning and installation of the heat exchanger), varnishing and spot repairs to the GRP.  We were impressed with the quality of workmanship exhibited by Murad and his team.  One of the highlights of our time in Marmaris was dinner at Murad's apartment with his family where we learned his expertise extends to the kitchen with a delicious meal of spare ribs.

Rudder servicing

New anchor chain markings

Despite contracting some of the work out our days were still busy with routine maintenance including servicing the 23 thru hull fittings, replacing anodes, cleaning the prop, cleaning the bilges, cleaning the sails and minor repair work, painting the anchor chain intervals and the list goes on and on with a total of 52 tasks completed. This did not include a total clean of the boat inside and out when we were back in the water to remove all the dust from the yard which seemed to go everywhere. Plus, the numerous loggie runs into town for local purchases. 

One observation from being in the yard is older men walking, or biking, in their speedos!  If John ever thinks about this dress option then it is time to move back on land. We are now looking forward to another three weeks cruising down the coast of Turkey before starting the passage to Sicily.

Sabbaticus with her new coppercoat bottom

Moving back into the water

Yacht Marina

Arriving in Turkey

From Kalymnos (Greece) it was a short 12NM sail to the entry port of Turgutreis in Turkey. In contrast to Greece's carbon copies, huge ledger books and manual processing for customs and port police Turkey's system is computerized and required an agent to be employed to process us into the system/country. After handing over Sabbaticus's documentation we returned two hours later, paid the Euro 185 had our passports stamped and were in possession of the mandatory Turkish transit log. Easy!

Anchored off Knidos ruins

We then departed the marina to the closest anchorage and were surprised to tune into a local radio station playing 80's music which we enjoyed during the short sail to Akaylar. This anchorage was in an attractive touristy bay and while a quiet spot during the day the night's entertainment started at 2200hrs with laser light shows and a loud band that played into the early hours. It was another night of ear plugs to ensure quieter sleep.

Castle of St Peter

The next day we sailed to Bodrum anchoring off the impressive Castle of St Peter where construction started in 1406 and finally finished in 1522.  With five towers built by five different nations the castle was an impressive sight. After a couple of days in Bodrum we had had enough of the maddening crowds of tourists, heat and the nightly noise of nightclubs. The beaches in town were packed and with murky water so it was a relief to return to Sabbaticus to swim off the boat in cleaner water and watch the numerous tourist Gulet's in the harbour. Gulet's are the traditional two-masted, or three-masted, wooden sailing boats built around Bodrum or Marmaris and are now used primarily for tourist charters of which they are plenty.

We then spent several weeks enjoying sailing each day to different anchorages and seeing pine forests, clear beautiful water and peaceful anchorages. The sailing has been perfect with the breeze coming in each day about 1400hrs and lasting for 3-4 hours giving us enough time to move anchorage. Some of the highlights were  anchoring in English Harbour, which the Special Boat Squadron used as a base during WWII; anchoring in Knidos outside the ancient ruins, Cokertme, and Gerbsake where we climbed the hill to an impressive ancient citadel along the ridge line.

We are now getting quite used to med mooring anchorages which are used when anchoring in small coves and in deep water which is common in Turkey.  We drop our bow anchor (usually in deep water) and then reverse close (10-20m) into the shore (sometimes squeezing ourselves in between adjacent boats), John then swims ashore with two stern lines and secures them to trees or rocks on the shore.  This holds the boat in close proximity to the shore and also effectively negates the boat swinging at anchor (often there is no room to 'swing'). In one bay we found a perfect cove where a local fisherman was repairing his lines for the day. He waved us in gesticulating where we could take lines ashore which was generous given we were practically on top of him. Feeling a tad guilty John swam over with a cold can of beer which seemed to appreciated.

Wasps to be avoided

While the anchorages have been  picturesque some of them suffer from a dusk invasion of wasps which is annoying and painful as John found out. The wasps appear to be attracted to water and hang around the swim platform which makes for a fast exit when getting back onto the boat to avoid being stung.  We made the mistake of leaving a bucket of washing out one night which was covered in wasps the next morning. Another mistake was leaving the swim ladder unlocked so when Leanne emptied the morning coffee granules overboard and held the swim ladder she fell into the water. Other than feeling like an idiot there was no harm done it was just another warm swim for the day. John failed to notice my unplanned departure which is a worry!

Bliss...

Our days now start and end with a swim, with many swims in between. The weather is just too hot to move quickly and even the water (tepid) is no longer refreshing. We have now become quite efficient at erecting the sun shade which is the first task at each new anchorage to keep the sun off the decks and the boat cooler. While teak decks might look good we are no longer fans of them - the decks are now  too hot to walk on with bare feet and any spillage requires immediate spot cleaning. Despite a desire to 'follow the sun' and avoid winters we find we are now longing for cooler temps under 30 degs.  Our next port of call is Marmaris where Sabbaticus will be hauled out of the water for some TLC.

Below are some photo's from the different anchorages.
  

View from the citadel at Gerbsake

Anchored alongside a Gulet in Bodrum

Crowded pebble beaches - not our idea of a holiday

Sabbaticus (closet white boat) anchored with lines ashore in Gerbsake

John in the bushes finding a tree for the mooring line