Passage to Nazaré, Portugal

Lighthouse in Nazaré Bay

After a lengthy ten days in Baiona, Spain we finally had a break in the weather to continue south. We had a fast trip to Nazaré, Portugal with 167NM covered in 23hrs. Once we were around the headland it was one tack to Nazaré which made it easy, with an average speed of 7 knots in Force 6 (22 - 27kts) wind with quite a few squalls which meant reefs in the sails, reefs out - repeatedly. Ironically after good speed and wind for this passage the wind died and we ended up motoring the last hour into the harbour.  We had to be careful on this leg with our departure window as there are limited refuge ports on the coast and in a W swell (which we had) many of the ports close.

 

Nazaré harbour entrance

We arrived in Nazaré (an all weather harbour) during daylight hours which was prudent as there are a high number of fishing buoys (and nets) approaching the harbour entrance. A constant look out ensured we never caught any - surprising how quickly the buoys appear between 4-5 meter cresting waves.  Arriving in Nazaré we couldn't raise the marina on the VHF channel and it appeared there was no room for us - this was despite emailing and confirming a berth (sounds like Oostend all over again!). The private yacht club opposite the entrance, Club Naval de Nazaré, had one spare berth that we spied through the bino's so we exercised decisive decision making and took it. We then waited an hour for the office to open to see if we could stay. We are learning in the winter months it is no point arriving before 1000hrs as most places are not open. Thankfully we could remain in the berth so settled in for the next week.


Nazaré is a picturesque fishing town and is one of the most popular seaside towns on the Atlantic coast with beautiful golden sand stretching for miles. We are pleased to be visiting out of season with empty beaches to enjoy.

Miles of golden sandy beaches

Out of season, there is an atmosphere of times gone with the old town quite run down but quite authentic with locals going about their daily activity, including drying fish on the beach.  We certainly enjoyed going to the local markets for fruit, vege and of course fish.  It appeared that most of the apartments were all shuttered for winter - the atmosphere would no doubt be very different in summer.

Surfers waiting to catch the wave

Nazaré is also (now) famous for it's surf beach with the biggest wave in the world surfed - 30 metres by a UK surfer. If you are interested here is video of this amazing feat. Biggest Wave in the World Surfed

The highlight of this stop over was a visit from our friends Jovi and Gedis who are live aboards on their trimaran who we met in Ispwich. They were staying an hour up the coast so came down for a day's visit. It was great to catch up and hear their sailing stories, go out for lunch for the local meal of 'fisherman's stew', watch the surfers then have a relaxed dinner onboard.

John, Gedis and Jovi watching the mad surfers - local entertainment!  

Yes ... it is winter.

A sign outside an apartment block

Next stop is planned for Sines, Portugal.