Living in Gibraltar

View of Gibraltar looking towards Spain

We have now spent six weeks living in Gibraltar and are starting to feel like locals who are enjoying the mild winter temperatures of 15 - 20 degs.  We even have library membership where there is no cost for borrowing new releases and the fine for an overdue book is 1 penny per day!  Instead of writing about the endless boat maintenance tasks this blog will provide an introduction to Gibraltar.

Gibraltar has an extensive and rich history and is recognised as the southernmost points of Europe.  It is  strategically positioned at the entrance to the Mediterranean, forming one of the ancient Pillars of Hercules. Gibraltar is small, just six square kms in total, the average width is 1.25km and the distance around the island is only 16kms with the highest point at 426mtrs.

Morocco - a short distance away

Border Crossing to La Linea

Spain is a short walk across the border and Morocco is only 24kms across the straits. It is easy to cross the border into Spain with about 30,000 workers and tourists crossing daily into Gibraltar. Given the small land mass & local population of 35,000, and daily influx of workers/visitors, surprisingly Gibraltar does not feel crowded with most people living in apartments.  The roads are busy at peak hours with scooters a popular mode of transport - this is despite the free buses for locals. 

The Tower of Homage remains of the Moorish Castle

Gibraltar is steeped in history combining civilisations and cultures dating back thousands of years. A very brief summary is Gibraltar was under Moorish domination for seven centuries, taken over by the Christians for 24 years in the 14th century and then recaptured by Spain. Gibraltar remained Spanish until 1704 when it fell to a combined Anglo-Dutch force. After this conflict Gibraltar was then ceded to the UK in perpetuity.  Though this did not stop the Spanish with many bloody conflicts to regain the Rock.  The four year "Great Siege" from 1779-1783 was an attempt by Spain to take back Gib. They failed. Spain again attempted to reclaim Gibraltar in 1969 which resulted in the border being closed for 13 years.  Political tensions continue to this day. 

The Mosque of The Custodian of The Holy Mosques

We like the cultural mix of Gibraltarian's today with the racial and religious harmony that is evident with a mosque, synagogue and churches all in close proximity and actively supported. The mosque, built in 1997 by the late King of Saudi Arabia, is said to be possibly the most expensive mosque in Europe per sq mtr costing five million pounds. The mosque complex’s ground floor area covers 985 sq mtrs and contains the Imam’s house, accommodation facilities for the caretaker, six classrooms, a conference hall, a morgue, library, administration offices, a kitchen and ablution facilities. For the opening the Saudi royal family and entourage required 60 limousines & associated security. I can only imagine the logistics planning required for the opening ceremony.

Not surprisingly both English and Spanish is taught in the schools.  We are now used to hearing a fluent Spanish speaker with a Brit accent and have adapted to most businesses closing for an extended lunch hour.

One of the reasons for the English success in the four year siege are the 'The Great Siege Tunnels' which  are heralded as one of the most impressive defence systems devised by man.  The tunnels were built into the Rock to allow the guns and companies of men to live there and withstand the siege. The tunnels were further extensively developed during WW2 on the direction of Churchill who believed an attack on Gibraltar was imminent.   As a result today there are now 48kms of tunnels in the Rock!  These are impressive to view - especially given they were built to accommodate 16,000 troops for a period up to one year complete with power, water supply and sanitary arrangements.  The allied African campaign was run from these tunnels.  

Gibraltar has a strong economy with 10% growth last year, and is VAT (=NZ GST) free, and is famous for cheap fuel, perfumes and alcohol - a 1 ltr of Bombay Gin is only  NZ$16 - one could easily become an alcoholic here at these prices! Gibraltar is also famous for the  'Barbary Apes' which are a species of tail-less monkeys from North Africa that inhabit the upper reaches of the Rock.  

Relaxed in his pose .. 

These are the only free-living monkeys in Europe today with approx 160 of them living in the natural reserve at the top of the Rock.  I was definitely not keen on them as they are known to jump on people to access their back packs for food (one tourist was recently badly bitten).  Hence on this hike I had our lunch box securely sealed in John's back pack just in case they could smell it!  There are fines of 4,000 pound for feeding the monkeys. Despite being semi-wild monkeys they did seem quite used to being relatively close to people.

 

A visit to Gibraltar wouldn't be complete with a hike up the steep Mediterranean Steps which required a few stops to catch your breath on the way up. The steps runs mainly along the South- eastern side of the Rock, an area that is primarily cliffs! The view from the steps are breathtaking, taking in the Mediterranean Sea, Spain and Morocco.  

We are enjoying our 'winter over' in Gibraltar and the ease of living in a small town but having access to La Linea for greater variety of hardware stores. Thankfully everything is in walking distance which keeps us fit.  Our daily exercise now sees us alternating between a hike up the Rock, pilates in the local park, or a run out to the lighthouse before starting 'work'. Once we get sailing again we will miss the hill climbs and spectacular views.

View from the Eastern side looking North to the Spanish Coast

View looking NW towards La Linea, Spain

Border crossing is across the runway

Spain in the distance across Gibraltar Bay

Our current berth in Queensway Quay Marina

The next blog update will focus on the boat maintenance that is being completed.  If only to dispel the myth that we are sitting around all day enjoying G&T's on deck!