Arrival in Gibraltar

We have been in Gibraltar for a month now and have been busy in maintenance mode - so the blog updates have slipped while we make the most of the mild winter to get the outside tasks completed. The trip from Cadiz to Gibraltar at 80 NM was our shortest, and last, trip for 2014. We opted for a late departure from Cadiz at 1730hrs to ensure we arrived in Gibraltar during daylight hours. While the plan was good, we had stronger winds than forecasted with the main and geona reefed at 3/4 for the duration of the trip with excellent sailing conditions. We arrived at the entrance to Gibraltar on 13 Dec at 0500hrs - so much for daylight hours! This was a particularly taxing arrival due to the volume of shipping traffic with both of us staying on watch from 0300hrs to ensure no collisions. It was like a city coming into the straits of Gibraltar with all the ships lit up.  

Qcean Village Marina

After completing our check-in process and hot showers it was time for breakfast then a much needed sleep.  I was fully prepared with my PJs on making breakfast while John completed his final checks on deck.  It was then we realised the docks were not floating - a major problem for us as the davits (and the dinghy) were overhanging the concrete dock.  You would think this would be easily solved, just move the boat further away from the dock - this would work but then we could not get on or off the boat.  Okay, take the dinghy off and retract the davits - yes that works but there was nowhere to keep the dingy for an extended period and it won't (easily) fit on our foredeck.  

Safely berthed at Queensway Marina

With the rising tide we would have woken to a damaged dinghy and davits and no way of getting off the boat.  So much for a sleep!  To give ourselves some time to assess the situation (noting this was to be a long term stop over) we initially moved the boat to a temporary finger pier (alongside berth).  With only two marina's in Gibraltar there are not many options. I had contacted Queensway Marina (the other marina) for a berth but they had not confirmed availability so we walked down to see if they had floating docks and a spare berth.  Fortunately they had both so it was back onboard and our third move in less than four hours of arriving - and yes another Med mooring!  Queensway Marina is a small marina surrounded by apartment blocks and restaurants, with good security and quiet location (no runway) with a good view of 'The Rock. 

View from our berth

We are now back into a 'work mode' as we catch up on a myriad of boat tasks.  These have included finally taking out the passarelle (a boarding platform to get on/off the stern of the boat when Med moored), five months after purchasing a 8HP, 2 stroke outboard motor it was fitted to the dinghy and run, completing some minor repairs, installing a new deck wash pump, replacing the port winch power control board (which had previously failed), stripping and cleaning all seven winches and the windlass and the never ending task of cleaning and polishing the GRP and stainless steel. Thankgoodness for audio books and podcasts to listen to while working.

Testing the outboard - or playing!

While we had planned on one month in Gib sourcing spares from the UK, and being delivered the wrong items (it always comes back to logistics!) compounded by the Christmas holidays has meant our time here will be extended. Although our Christmas Day was quiet with just the two of us we are now settled into Gib and enjoying the ease of living on a small island with a population of 35,000 and an area of 6.4sq km - it is so easy to walk everywhere. We have only had one day of rain in the month and the temps are mild - with highs of 20 degs and over night low of 10 degs - this is better than a Welly winter:). We are a short 10 min walk to the town's shopping area and a 30 minutes walk to cross the border into Spain for a greater variety of shops and more competitive euro prices. With 35,000 people daily crossing into Gibraltar during winter the border crossing can get busy - just as well passports are not stamped as the queues would be long even longer. It is certainly faster to walk across the border than travel by car or scooter, however, it is interesting to note a resurgence in political tension between the UK and Spain over the status of Gibraltar!  Hmmm - must look at our insurance - don't want to be caught in any incident that could be characterized as an act of war for which we are not covered. LOL!

Border Crossing from La Linea to Gibraltar - easy but political tensions remain!

The passarelle - akin to walking a plank

Looking down on Queensway Marina

As a result of questions we have received we have now added a page called 'about the yacht' which provides information on Sabbaticus and her systems for the yachties out there. 

Our next blog will cover the more interesting tourist highlights of Gibraltar.  Below is one of the 'locals' we see on a regular basis when doing our daily exercise on The Rock.

Cadiz, Spain

After a leisurely departure in the morning we enjoyed the 110NM passage from Vilamoura, Portugal to Cadiz, Spain.  Although cold overnight, requiring two sets of long-johns, this was a near perfect passage with great sailing conditions.  Although light (almost non-existent) wind required motoring in the late afternoon/early evening for about 6 hours (30 miles) we were fortunate as the wind then picked up suddenly around 2100 rising from 9 to 25 knots in the space of 30 mins and after unfurling the sails, killing the engine, then shortening sail we were on our way again with good 7-8 kts of boat speed! The night sailing was relaxing with relatively calm seas, good wind and a full moon providing a most enjoyable night sail (and not too many fishing boats).   

Another nav hazard to avoid - sandbanks

Arriving at 0300hrs to Peurto Sherry Marina we followed the marina instructions to "keep the buoys to port" at the breakwater entrance due to the shifting sandbank. This all made sense when we looked over the stern from the visitors pontoon on waking the next morning. This was a pleasant marina for a stopover with 750 berths and tourist apartments /restaurants built around the marina.  The economic crisis is evident with many apartment blocks unfinished.

Santa María Bull Fighting Ring  

After finishing the mandatory task of giving Sabbaticus a good wash down to remove all the salt we enjoyed sightseeing in the local area of Santa María and finding a huge local supermarket within walking distance. We still get a chuckle seeing the huge wine selections with bottles starting at 1 Euro - though not sure how good the quality would be - it is cheaper than the bottled water!

Rooftop view of Cadiz Cathedral

We then spent two days visiting the city of Cadiz - getting our daily exercise by walking 45mins to catch the ferry (30 min ride) across the harbour. Cadiz is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Spain and one of the oldest in western Europe.  We loved the relaxed vibe of this city reveling in it's history which included being a depot for Hannibal's conquests, falling to the Romans in 206BC, ruled by the  Moors from 711 to 1262, Christopher Columbus sailing from Cadiz on his 2nd and 4th voyages, and raids by Francis Drake in 1587 who occupied the harbour for 3 days, captured 6 ships and destroyed 31 ships which delayed the Spanish Armada sailing by a year. Plus the numerous invasions and occupations over the next couple of centuries by the British with the Spanish constitution signed in 1812 in Cadiz - all resulting in a rich history.

Front of Cadiz Cathedral

The original Cadiz Cathedral completed in 1260 was burnt down in 1596. The 'new' cathedral, built on the same site, was started in 1776 and was finished 116years later.  The different colours of exterior material used were a result of running out of money during the project.  The lower darker colour is the local crushed oyster shells - very beautiful and seen on quite a few buildings around  

Torre Tavira Watch Tower

     Torre Tavira Watch Tower

In the 18th century Cadiz was one of the most important ports and trading centres in Europe becoming a wealthy city. As a result Cadiz became a target for pirates who repeatedly raided the ports.  To protect the coastline and the shipping trade 160 watch towers were built on local merchant houses, this allowed the merchants to observe the ships arriving with goods from the Americas for trade.

 


Local markets are always a feast of the senses. This swordfish head was impressive and the shark looked menacing even dead!  Just wished we had bought our knives for sharpening - a novel (but practical) approach.

A view from our 'back door' at sunrise looking across the marina towards a traditional boat being restored.  Just beautiful.

Again miles and miles of golden sandy beaches

Vibrant and colourful!

 Our next stop is Gibraltar where we intend to stay for a month to spend time working on the boat before heading to Spain.

Last Stop in Portugal - Vilamoura

Top speed for us!

After five enjoyable days in Cascais, the forecast looked good to continue sailing south.  This was a great sail with a very fast passage overnight with strong following wind and 5-7m swells, the boat was running fast 8-9kts with the top speed of 12.9kts at one stage (this is fast for us)! These conditions allowed us to 'pole out' the genoa (sail at the front of the boat) to make the most of the 

running with the wind behind us.

Geona poled out

In the morning, once we rounded the SW corner of Portugal, we sailed into smooth water and a warm sunrise and a nice offshore breeze  - it was a great run along the South of coast of Portugal at 6-8kts in prefect conditions.  




We decided to extend an additional few miles and get to Vilamoura which has good facilities. This marina has 1300 berths and is surrounded by apartments all designed for tourists.  Almost feels like the viaduct basin but larger with all the restaurants and bars built around the marina. Though it is all very nice we prefer the more authentic local marina's.  

Sunset in the marina

Vilamoura has a beautiful coastline and long sandy beaches which would be the attraction in summer.  Again it is a real bonus being out of season with most places almost deserted, plus the marina prices are in the low season which makes it much more affordable waiting for the weather window.  In sharp contrast to the local villages there appears a plethora of Porsche, Maserati, Merc, and BMW vehicles in the marina to keep up appearances (what economic crises)! 


   

I love this quote - outside a local Thai Restaurant

While Portugal has a VAT (same as NZ GST) at 23% it is interesting to note that tax is applied at different rates depending on the food type.  For example, 6% for fruit/vege and milk and 13% for wine. One could easily become a caffeine addict given the local cafe prices for 2 x coffees and a doughnut is only €2.25. 

We are now ready to depart on our last overnight passage planned to Cadiz in Spain.  After that it is a relatively short day passage to Gibraltar where we plan to remain a while.  It's ironic, after being delayed for weeks by strong winds we are now beset by no wind at all. 

Sunset on Vilamoura beach