Sunday 31 August 2014

The River Thames, London



Approaching Thames Barrier Gates
After a couple of days at anchor it was time to move again this time motoring up the River Thames. While we wanted to sail, time was running out to wait for the right wind direction so we departed Sun at 0730hrs.  The River Thames has 18,000 vessel arrivals & departures each year – an average of 50 per day.  These figures do not include the Thames tourist and commuter boat services, and tugs/barges operating between the many wharves on the Thames.  In addition to the traffic on the Thames there is a tidal range of over 7 metres and flow at over 4 knots and the wash of passing vessels to contend with – hence why the pilot passage planning books advice ‘this is not recommended for novice sailors’.  

While we had prepared for the heavy commercial shipping we were surprised at how few ships we actually saw going up the Thames. The River only really became busy the closer we were to London with fast ferries and tourist boats continually crossing the river.  We never thought we would visit London on a boat, go through the Thames Barrier Gates, motor to the Tower Bridge before returning to Limehouse Marina a mile down river.

Another tick on the 'bucket list'

Limehouse Lock - rather narrow
Built in 1820 Limehouse Marina was the main access route from the Thames to London canals with access through a swinging bridge and lock.  We had a few anxious minutes at the narrow canal entrance with waves funneling and the tide to be crossed we entered our first lock, when the lock gates closed all was calm again.  Limehouse Marina was a great location with easy access to public transport and surprisingly very quiet.  Over half the boats (about 50) are permanent live aboards which would be a cost effective way to live in the city.  After a quick boat wash Sabbaticus was again ship shape and ready for a visit from Nicko, Suse and the girls which was the perfect way to end the day catching up with friends.

Squeezed into the lock departing with a house boat

We enjoyed the vibrancy of London with the highlight being visits to the Greenwich National Maritime Museum, Royal Observatory, a couple of exhibitions and a tunnel walk back under the Thames.  We were spoilt with a BBQ at Nicko and Suse’s with the Barne’s whanua which was another enjoyable night out. 
Prime Meridian
Poppy commemoration to WW1 in the Tower of London

















Although we had planned to depart on Wed we stayed an extra day to use the wifi access and reload the laptop the extra time also allowed for another online grocery shop – with delivery at one pound there is no point walking and lugging heavy shopping bags. We are now provisioned again until our next marina stop planned for 15 Sep in Southampton. 
 
Captain Cook's uniform worn on HM Endeavour
Departing the Thames we came across several of the tall ships arriving for the festival next week – they were just beautiful to see in full sail. We are now at anchor in Stangate Creek, River Medway waiting for some wind to go down the coast to Southampton.  

  




Domestic's still need to be completed on the boat.  With no washing machine it is usually a bucket wash each day until the next marina.  On leaving Limehouse we did a final sheet wash knowing it would dry on the rails - provided it stayed attached! 



Thursday 28 August 2014

Passage from Belgium to the UK



On arrival in Oostende we asked the Harbour Master if we needed to contact Customs and were advised this was not required. After four days in the marina we were then surprised to be visited by Belgium Customs. The Customs Officer, Mark, told us he saw our yacht and wanted to practice his English so thought he would visit.  Although Mark checked all our documentation and asked the questions it was a very informal visit with John and him chatting for an hour so the objective of English practice was achieved! However, John did manage to score a number of good beer recommendations from Mark.
Getting ready to leave ...
Sailing through ships at anchor
After five days in Oostende, the marina was emptying out and the forecast was promising so it was time to head back to the UK – this time the passage plan was for 19 hours to the River Medway. This trip required considerable nav planning for John as we had three tidal cycles crossing the channel coupled with the constraints imposed by cross route Traffic Separation Schemes. The trip started out very well with excellent wind, favourable tides and 7kts average boat speed (at times hitting 9kts speed over ground with favourable tide). Crossing the Vessel Traffic Separation System was not nearly as daunting the second time nor was sailing through the ships at anchor waiting to come into port.  
 
Taking time out
With the wind reducing, and being a nice sunny day we altered course to ensure we continued to sail (rather than starting the engine and running against the wind up the entrance channel) and detoured past a couple of wind farms.  With the benefit of hindsight we should have kept with the original plan as the wind died off and the forecast wind shift did not eventuate.  We ended up motoring against the tide and wind – slow progress but the sun was shining the sea flat so it was still a good day to be on the water.  
  
Against the recommended best practice we arrived in darkness to navigate into a new port and anchor up a creek (did I mention this was in the dark), crossing two major channels avoiding unlight shipping mooring buoys (very large) and a number of obstructions in shallow water.  Passing shipwrecks with masts breaking the surface at night was quite haunting as the structures looked like ghosts looming out of the channel.  However the night passage provided an excellent opportunity for the best mate to learn her night lights – generous of the skipper to plan this into the passage just for moi! 
 
SS Montgomery - shipwrecked in 1944 after dragging anchor she run aground on a sandbank - sobering lesson and easier to spot during the day though just as haunting.

Thankfully we finally dropped anchor in Stangate Creek in the River Medway at 2330hrs after another long day.  The next day saw John getting his daily exercise by going overboard and cleaning the waterline – note the rope securing John to the boat ensure I didn’t lose him to the tide and this was during slack water! We realised we had selected a popular anchorage as the locals arrived on Sat with a total of 16 boats at anchor  – quite different from being the solitary boat on Fri night.  


Next stop is up the River Thames to London.

Tuesday 26 August 2014

Shakedown Passage to Belgium

Finally leaving Fox's Marina
After returning to Fox's Marina for a small repair on the mast, we finally bade farewell to the Fox's and Oyster team's to start our cruising adventure. We had been made to feel welcome and were very impressed with the support and goodwill demonstrated by Fox's and Oyster team and left with new friends made. After our extended nine weeks of living in the marina we were looking forward to the independence and solitude of anchoring. Also, the Skipper had a misapprehension that we may be becoming a little settled in our 'condo marina'  lifestyle and that we needed to remind ourselves that we actually lived on a boat that needed to be sailed!  

So, after several days sailing on the Rivers Orwell and Stour, we had practiced our boat handling, engine start ups, mooring, anchoring, man overboard drills and literally 100's of tacks and a few gybes (did I mention that the Skipper would not allow me to use the electric winches whilst under training!!!).  After several hard days yakka the Skipper declared that we were ready for a shake down passage to stretch the boats 'legs'.  Yahoo - excitement at last but also trepidation as it really was just the two of us now! 

Anchored opposite the Royal Hospital School in Holbrook

On Fri 15 Aug @0445hrs we slipped anchor and motored out of the River Stour for the 75NM trip to Oostende,Belgium. While the trip was planned for 17 hours @5kts it ended up being a bit of a marathon effort finally arriving in the marina at 2300hrs.  Sabbaticus, at 25plus tonnes, needs 10-15kts to really get her speed up which we did have for part of the crossing.  With 30NM to go the wind dropped which resulted in motor sailing, then dropped even further so it was down to motoring in against the tide (did I mention the huge tides up here) with 4kts average speed over ground - this made for a slow and lumpy trip with us both feeling a bit queasy - we are hoping the sea legs will arrive on the return trip to the UK. With a couple of hours to go we then had forked lightning on the bow and thunderstorms closing in, tidal streams, traffic separation schemes to cross, and shallow water to avoid so quite an eventful trip but thankfully a safe one with no damage to Sabbaticus or us.

Combat Napping
'Tommy' (aka auto pilot) taking his watch
Our navigation skills were tested as we planned our voyage across several Vessel Traffic Separation System's (unavoidable) and then entering a busy port via a very narrow channel at night which tested us both but proved our teamwork with no cross words spoken (early days eh!).  We did have a couple of calls from the Coastguard to inquire 'our intentions' and explain what we were doing altering course whilst crossing a traffic separation scheme (no kidding Sherlock - can't you see the great big thunderstorm on the bow with forked lightning hitting the water!!!).  One of the advantages of AIS (Automatic Identification System) is we are visible to all commercial ships so they can at least see us and call us if required.


AIS track of Sabbaticus through the shipping lanes


We had booked a marina berth at Royal North Sea Yacht Club in Oostende but arriving so late meant all berths were taken. This was a dilemma as the locks to the other marina's had closed at 2200hrs and anchoring was not an option.  So we attempted to go alongside two other boats to be advised by the owner we could not raft up more than two boats. He advised the police had told him this as another boat had tried earlier. Fortuitously the police launch had just docked so we motored off and Leanne hailed them requesting permission for 'three boats rafted up' until 0700hrs when we would move.  Thankfully the police spoke English and agreed to this plan (selling ice to Eskimo's eh), so once again we came alongside woke the owner and secured Sabbaticus to their boat.  We were both somewhat surprised when he proved to be pleasant towards us the next day! 
   
View from the bow on waking - note the tidal range quite different to NZ!

It only felt like a couple of winks before we heard a boat engine that sounded like it was driving straight through our cabin we both jumped out of bed to see the fishing boats going out and a local ferry - literally a couple of feet from us.  We went back to bed and 10mins later heard a knocking on the hull to find that boat #1 against the pontoon was leaving so we were moving too. So much for a sleep in!  We then moved to a permanent berth and spent the next few hours giving Sabbaticus a good clean before we have a few days off to relax and explore the local area.
 
View from our 'back door' - close to the inner channel but interesting to watch the shipping, tugs, ferries and yachts passing.

Off exploring now and preparing for our next training passage.

Oostende, Belgium


We enjoyed our time in Oostende exploring the local area, enjoying Belgian chocolate, beers, cheese and people watching. One observation is the love of dogs and bikes - both which are everywhere. One of the highlights was catching up with Susie and family who were in spending a week on holiday in the local area and called in for a visit. 
 
The Royal North Sea Yacht Club Marina was centrally located and a busy time in the weekends with a constant flow of boats in and out.  We have yet to get used to other boats rafting up and then people walking across our decks at all hours of the night. A walk off the boat to the heads/showers and laundry was like taking a step class at low tide but good exercise for the day!

Low tide!
Being so close to Bruges (15min train ride) we visited this historic town. Bruges is a gorgeous Gothic city located near the Belgium coast with cobblestone lanes, canals and soaring spires and is described as 'one of Europe's most picture-perfect historic cities'. In the 11th century, Bruges was one of the world's  largest cities.  Today is a major tourist destination.
Novelty chocolates ...




Bruges is often referred to as the 'Venice of the North' which is appreciated as you wander the streets - even on a wet day it was very picturesque.





A typical canal scene in Bruges
While it would have been relaxing to stay longer and enjoy the ambience of Oostende, it was time to return to the UK and continue with the 'shakedown' training passage's to ensure we have the experience on Sabbaticus to cross the Bay of Biscay in the next month and be in the Mediterranean for winter.




The next blog update will be our
 return trip to the UK.


Sunday 17 August 2014

Underway - at last!

Over the last few weeks we have completed a couple of days sailing, the boat is provisioned, the spare parts stored and the majority of tasks now completed. This has included quite a few trips up the mast for John to replace a HF antenna and cabling. The mast height is 20 metres so you don't want to be up there any longer than necessary - just as well the best mate brings him down on request!  Thank goodness for electric winches. 



View from the top of the mast

The first time out sailing was quite daunting with self furling main sail, head sail and bow thruster which are all new systems to learn how to operate.  We were fortunate that Duncan (from Oyster Yachts and a RYA Skipper and Instructor) joined us to show us how to use the systems.  Raising the sails with the press of a finger is a novelty we are getting used to.  

Duncan keeping an eye on John

Motoring past local tourist Thames barge
During our first night on a mooring we had just sat down with a drink and nibbles to enjoy the peace and quiet and celebrate this milestone.  We then noticed the border patrol RIB going down the river. The RIB then turned around and came up behind us and "asked" for permission to board.  We then had a 30 min visit with the boat searched, papers and passports checked and a few questions asked.  All very pleasant but hopefully this will not occur on a regular intervals as a foreign registered vessel in the UK.

Border Patrol departing - notice the UK summer weather!
Although we have an auto pilot on the boat (another system we are not used to) it does take awhile to get used to leaving the helm and the boat steering herself.  With only the two of us there are plenty of opportunities to take the helm so Leanne is spending the time practicing her helming. 

Enjoying time on the helm

We are now departing Fox's Marina and plan to spend a week cruising the local area and then sail across to Belgium for a shake down cruise.  Belgium is approx 15 hrs away so it will be a good test for the boat systems and the two of us.  Crossing the English Channel requires plenty of planning with heavy shipping, numerous controlled Vessel Traffic Systems, strong tidal flows and shifting sand bars!  Good opportunity to brush up on the Navigation skills!  You can follow us on AIS:  http://www.marinetraffic.com 

Nav planning for Belgium

Saturday 2 August 2014

Sailing onboard Flying Kefi



Several weeks ago we had a 'day off' to go out sailing with new friends Gedis and Jovi, from Lithuanian, onboard their 40ft trimaran 'Flying Kefi' which was a most enjoyable. The boat is a Dragon Fly 1200 with great performance.  Never having sailed on a "tri" it was an opportunity not to be missed.  We were not disappointed and when the wind picked up later in the day the boat showed her pedigree on flat water boasting impressive speeds - 9 plus kts in 12-15 kts. 

Ready to board
The weather was perfect with clear blue skies, light airs and our first chance to sail past the wind farms in the shallows of the English Channel.  The wind farm's were impressive to see 250 wind turbines in a single farm was a novelty but one we will no doubt get used to when we start sailing down the coast. Getting out of the lock from the Ipswich marina was a good reminder of what we will experience sailing in this part of the world. We motored past the  Port of Felixstowe, Suffolk. This is the UK's busiest container port, dealing with over 40% of Britain's containerised trade. 

Securing the boat in the lock
Felixstowe Port
While waiting for the wind it was time to relax an enjoy the extra space of the trampoline - sheer luxury compared to a yacht.  Leanne enjoyed this, while John and Gedis reviewed the local charts.

Enjoying time out
Boys are into the nav books









Sailing up to a wind farm
The size of each windmill was impressive



Returning back through the lock


The end of a good day with new friends:)