Sabbaticus Travel Log: Kythnos, Siros and Mykonos Islands

After leaving Poros Is we had our longest day of sailing, 46NM / 10hrs, to reach the group of Cyclades Islands. Our first stop was Kolona Bay in Kythnos which was a barren rocky island with sheltered anchorages. Kolona Bay was a beautiful stopover and we enjoyed the walk along the goat tracks to the sand bar that linked to another bay. We also were able to swim ashore to enjoy the ‘hot springs pool’ which in reality was a puddle with enough room for 2-3 people to sit in. Watching the numerous herds of goats frolicking on the hills and shoreline made a pleasant change from traffic noises.

Row, row, row your boat ..

After a couple of days we then moved around the island to the Loutra Bay. With limited ‘swinging room’ in the anchorage we took a stern line ashore - another first time experience for us. This required Leanne rowing the dinghy while John holds the stern line and then secures it to the first available rocky ledge or tree onshore. On our second night (with gusty winds predicted) we decided to visit the local town quay and enjoyed the small village, walking the hills and a larger pool of hot springs off the beach which were a popular place to meet people.

St George's Cathedral

It was then a short sail from Kythnos to Siros Is. After a couple of nights anchoring at Finikas we sailed around the coast (17NM) to Ermoupoli, the capital and the ferry hub for the Cyclades Islands. This was a very busy port with Sabbaticus moored alongside the town quay and enjoyed the ambience of the town, visiting the numerous church's, wandering around the maze of streets and watching the super yachts, ferries and yachts arriving and departing. Stepping of the boat we were walking straight into the table and chairs of the local bars and tavernas - while we enjoyed the ambience of this scene in the wee hours of the morning it wasn't as appealing with the late night dinner's shooting the breeze. We are working away through the Greek cuisine at the local tavernas and bakeries and enjoying our spanakopita for lunch (spinach & cheese in filo pastry). While it would have been good to stay another few days the constant ferry wash and gusts created a surge which became uncomfortable so we decided to move on to Mykonos (one of the published 'tourist' highlights).

Mykonos Town Quay

Although Mykonos was only a 21NM trip away the forecasted wind of 25kts quickly built to a 30-35kts on the beam and a maximum of 40kts once we were outside of the harbour. In these conditions Sabbaticus raced away under half a genoa (only) and still kept good speed with the small amount of sail up. This was not a pleasant trip for Maree and Colin who had to endure Force 7 conditions- the only positive note was this passage was a fast 3 hr crossing to the island. Berthing at the town quay in 40kts gusts and squeezing into a tight space is definitely easier with extra hands onboard to assist. The Mykonos town quay was a busy place with the local ferries and a cruise ship on the outer mole and two cruise ships at anchor.

Little Venice

The town of Mykonos is known at the tourist mecca of the Cyclades. From the town quay we caught a local ferry to the town city and took in the sights and strolled around the maze of streets, walked through Little Venice where the sea laps up to the edge of restaurants / bars and the hilltop row of windmills (none in working condition) our experience was jaded by the three cruise ships in town on the same day. On a fine day with no wind, fewer tourists the town would be dazzling with the white washed cube shaped houses stacked around the harbour and the many, many blue domed churches dotted around.

We spent a few days at the town quay and enjoyed meeting other yachties and walking around the local area. Colin and Maree enjoyed a second day in Mykonos which was far more enjoyable than the first with no visiting cruise ships to destroy the ambiance of the village. After three days and the winds finally decreasing we then departed for Paros Is.